We are fortunate to have former White House Executive Chef Cristeta “Cris” Comerford join us this month to share some holiday entertaining for her fellow BCAers to try at home. As a bonus, she kindly shares the recipe for one of her favorite White House appetizers, tamales with roasted poblanos and Vidalia onion. When Mrs. Laura Bush named Comerford executive chef in 2005, history was made. A native of the Philippines, Comerford was the first woman and first person of color to hold the position. Comerford, who retired in August, reflects on her personal journey, the key to handling the demands and stress of the holidays, and her favorite White House story.
Q: In August, you retired as White House Executive Chef after 19 years. How are you spending your time these days…and what do you remember about your earliest conversations with Mrs. Bush about taking the role back in 2005?
Retiring after 19 years of being the White House Executive Chef (and an Assistant Chef for another 10 years), was one of the most difficult lifelong decisions I have had to make. I truly enjoyed all aspects of my job, serving the Presidents, the First Ladies, the First Families, and the American People. My husband and I moved to Florida, together with our two fur babies, Cooper and Cloud. We spend our times appreciating the simpler things in life; our worshipful walk with God, luxuriating in the sunrises and sunsets, cooking for John, reading, and visiting friends and families.
When the First Lady Laura Bush appointed me as the White House Executive Chef in August 2005, I did not realize at the time how consequential it was — for it broke so many glass ceilings:
First Woman, First Asian, First Filipino, and First Minority Executive Chef. I still am truly humbled and honored to have been granted this life changing opportunity. Mrs. Bush has always been an encouraging, supportive, and consummate mentor. She was a voracious reader, especially cookbooks, and would suggest recipes to add on our menu repertoire.
Q: Can you please pass along a piece of advice about entertaining at the holidays or a favorite recipe for an appetizer or dessert that your fellow Bush-Cheney alums could use this holiday season?
Entertaining during the holidays could be a daunting undertaking if it is not planned well.
We have to remind ourselves that when we host parties or families in our homes, it’s all about relationships and conversations. Food is an amazing tool to bring people together. Plan menus that you can prep ahead of time. Then, during the day of your event, you can simply “fire” or heat up your pre-prepped food and “plate up” your sauces and condiments.
One favorite recipe we served during the holidays was the Tamales with Roasted Poblanos and Vidalia Onion served with Tomatillo Sauce. It is an absolute delicious dish, can be made ahead, or can be a great “group” kitchen activity with friends and families.
Q: How did you handle the pressure of non-stop White House holidays parties every year?
The continuous White House holidays parties every year is the most challenging entertaining we execute other than a State Dinner. The Executive Residence Staff all worked together to accomplish success for these consecutive daily receptions for about three weeks. Planning and logistics will ensure that your preparation and execution will be effective. Personally, I would have the weekly, daily, and hourly tasks divided up to the kitchen Culinary Staff, the chefs. They are the secret to ensure complete success. My job as leader is to orchestrate every chef and other Executive Residence staff related to events to work harmoniously and congruously. This alleviates a tremendous amount of pressure off my shoulders allowing me to focus better on the big picture.
Q: You were the first woman to hold the position of White House Executive Chef. What did that mean to you?
Being the first woman, and a person of color, meant everything to me. My story resonates to an aspiring young minority woman or any young person for that matter, that all things are possible. I have always believed that when you are called, you are there because you are meant to be. Trust that God will equip you with the tools to succeed. The people around you are your greatest assets. I am always thankful that this opportunity has encouraged others to take the next step unequivocally.
Q: Can you leave us with a favorite story or moment from your time working with President and Mrs. Bush?
I have so many treasured moments and stories during the time I was working with President and Mrs. Bush. They have been so appreciative of the Residence Staff and has considered all of us to be a part of their family. One of my favorite remembrances was a story related to then Prince Charles, now King Charles III, and his new bride, Camilla Parker Bowles, now the Duchess of Cornwall. They had a State Visit at The White House in November of 2005. Days prior to the event, we would do menu tastings and menu development. We would do this these normally on the Second Floor, First Family Dining Room. After one of these dinners, President Bush called me to the dining room, the first Lady seated next to him, and teasingly said, that “the First Lady is going to meet her “First Prince” and that “she’s quite nervous!”. I just smiled and nodded in agreement because we all are! This moment just speaks to me of how the President and the First Lady are so humble and down to earth and are just like us. The State Visit was very memorable and successful, and everyone’s hard work truly paid off.
TAMALES with Roasted Poblanos and Vidalia Onion Served with Tomatillo Sauce
Makes 24-30 tamales
Tamale Ingredients
- 5 medium poblano peppers, roasted, peeled cut into ¼ inch strips
- 3 medium vidalia onion, sliced ¼ inch, pan roasted in canola oil
- 1# Oaxaca cheese, pulled into strips, about a couple inches long
- 5# fresh masa dough
- 1# vegetable shortening or butter softened
- 1 Tbsp baking powder
- 1 Tbsp fine sea salt
- 3 dozen dried corn husks, soaked in warm water for at least an hour
- Tomatillo Sauce, for serving
Directions:
-
- Char roast the poblano peppers on all sides in an open flame on the stove or a charcoal grill. Place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let it rest for about 15 minutes to “puff” the skin and cool off. Peel the chard skin by scraping with the back of a paring knife. De seed, take off the stem and julienne into ¼ inch strips about a couple inches in length. Set aside.
- Sauté the onion on high heat with a couple spoons of canola oil. Season with salt and pepper if desired. Set aside.
- Pull the Oaxaca cheese into strips about a couple inches in length.
- For the fresh masa, just work in a mixing bowl with a mixing paddle. Add the shortening or butter, baking powder and sea salt until soft and fluffy.
- To assemble; Place a soaked corn husk on a worktable. Place about 2 heaping spoons of the masa dough on the wider end. Spread into a rectangle, about ¼ inch thick leaving about half an inch border around the edges of the husk. Place a few strips of the roasted poblano peppers, vidalia onion and Oaxaca cheese in the center of the dough.
- Fold the two sides to encase the filling, then fold the bottom of the smaller end of the husk up. Secure the tamale wrap by tying a smaller strip from an extra husk. You will probably have about two dozen to thirty tamales.
- Fill a large pot with about an inch of water. Place the tamales, open side up, in the pot steamer insert making sure the water level is not touching the steam rack. Cover and steam for about an hour or until the dough is cooked through. Remove and let rest for about fifteen minutes. Serve immediately with tomatillo sauce*
- This can be refrigerated for up to a week or wrapped well and frozen until use.
Tomatillo Sauce Ingredients
- 8 medium size tomatillos, cut in quarters
- 1 medium sized onion, cut in quarters
- 8 cloves garlic, peeled
- 1 or 2 jalapenos, de stem, de seed
- 2 Tbsp canola oil
- 1 ripe avocado
- 6 limes, juiced
- 1 bunch cilantro, washed and spun dry
- Salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
- Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the tomatillos, onion, garlic and jalapeno in a roasting pan. Drizzle with canola oil. Roast until slightly charred for about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.
- Place in a blender. Add the scooped avocado, lime juice, cilantro. Blend until fully incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.
